Gamla Falls and Stream

Two must see Nature Reserves are Gamla and Yehudia. We hiked in, enjoying the sites, pools, and waterfalls.

 

Gamla was the last stronghold in Northern Israel of the Jewish revolt against the Romans in 67 AD. Like Masada near the Dead Sea (which was the last stronghold in the South) it was known but not discovered until modern Israel began excavations. Gamla was discovered after the 1967 war when Israel captured the Golan Heights. The description of the mountain fortress by Josephus, who led the Jewish revolt in the North is eerily accurate to what we see today. It is a mountain in the shape of a camel’s hump, which is why it is named Gamla (which means camel). We viewed the excavated fortress and in the same vicinity there is a 4^th century Christian Church with a Byzantine Olive Press. Just a few hundred meters along the path are the Dolmens stone slabs, similar to Stonehenge formations built 4000 years ago used as burial edifices by nomads. All these sites are within a short walking distance and are reminders of the fantastic historical treasures and stories from this region.

 

The Gamla Falls are the highest cascade in Israel and present a spectacular view surrounded by steep cliffs. A special treat on this nature trail was the eagle and vulture lookout point. We could see the birds in flight over vast canyons, and with binoculars could marvel their grace and wingspan. Birds seem ever present in Israel; the whole country is a bird sanctuary. Whether in Jerusalem, Tiberias, Rehovot, or in the Hermon Reserve, I awaken to  birdcalls at sunrise and sunset consistently.

 

We proceeded to the Yehudia Reserve that contains the Meshushim Pool and delighted in the waters. Great rock formations surround the pool, which seemed to be sculpted, but are a natural wonder.

 

The Israel Nature and Parks Authority maintains dozens of wonderful nature sites and archeological treasures available to the public. One could easily plan a great trip in Israel just by visiting these parks. As I have found in the Parks Service in California, the people who are the rangers and guides at these sites are dedicated, helpful guardians of the land. They are very knowledgeable, and we have been well taken care of. Of course, the fact that Avraham is fluent in Hebrew and is familiar with the local customs has made a huge difference. Seeing Israel with an Israeli as your companion brings us Americans into the tent in a special way. We can see the easy, intimate way people interact and in the Nature Reserves there is even greater affinity. As one California Park Ranger once told our group of hikers, “The higher the elevation, the nicer the people.” Well, the same principle is true here in Israel; the more remote the nature area is from the cities, the more appreciative people are to meet and greet each other in their experience of these natural and archeological legacies we all can share.

 

As precious as the natural wonders are there is something stirring about visiting a site such as the Gamla Fortress. Just as when I viewed the Western Wall, Masada, and other ruins from the Roman era, I feel the connection to the Jews of that period during the last gasps for Jewish sovereignty were squashed. It makes seeing Israelis enjoy themselves in this land that much special to behold.

Devorah and Gilabon Falls

 

 

The Golan and Upper Galilee have abundant waterfalls, which are all the more precious because of the arid climate in most of the country. Today we did our first hike to two waterfalls deep in the Gilbon Nature Preserve. Knowing I would have strenuous hikes in the Golan, I tried to condition myself by hiking as frequently as I could in Marin several months prior to my departure. Believe me, I needed it! The hike was a difficult level (meaning down and up steep hills with a trail of boulder rocks and multiple stream crossings).  The views of the falls and valleys were well worth it and the rock hopping to cross the streams added a bit of adventure to the hike.

 

(Photos to follow)

 

I kept my pack as light as possible, but schlepped a gallon of water on my back since dehydration is a danger in Israeli heat.

 

But I did learn something about Israeli hiking custom. When we arrived at the base of Gilbon Falls and rested by a spectacular pool of water, my cousin Avraham smiled impishly and suggested what we needed now was a nice cup of hot mint tea. I laughed and replied, “Yeah sure”. He then proceeded to take out of his pack a propane stove, small pot and the fresh mint leaves he had carried up and down the mountain boiled the tea and served us in the plastic tea cups he brought along; such a civilized way to enjoy refreshment on a hike.

 

Groups of Israeli teens were enjoying play in the natural pools by the waterfalls. I enjoyed seeing how religious, secular and Arab kids, who we saw each in separate groups, could share the enjoyment of these nature reserves. Like young people everywhere, they were loud, mischievous, and vivacious. Unlike kids everywhere, each group had someone guarding them with a rifle, which is a requirement for all organized groups who come into any nature preserve. Even in the wilderness, vigilant security is as natural as carrying a canteen.

On the Road to Tel Dan

Amazingly, our rendezvous at the Rehovot Bus Station with Avraham and then with Hal at the Jerusalem airport went without a hitch and we made our way from Ben Gurion Airport to the far North in about three hours. We three are mid-50’s aged guys who have chosen our life paths and can appreciate the special gift of time, inclination, and camaraderie these few days together will afford us. We immediately engage in jocular banter combined with our genuine eagerness to explore the trails, vistas, and archeological gems that await us in our excursion on the Golan.

 

One of the most disturbing aspects of Israeli life, noted by all my hosts, is the alarming increase in car thefts. Most everyone strongly urged me not to leave anything valuable in the car, even in the trunk. Avraham and I had lunch before we picked up Hal and he insisted we sit by a window table so we could always see our parked car. Unfortunately, car theft is one of the areas of perfect relations between Jews and Arabs. The cars are stolen by Israeli Jews and transported across the border to Arabs who either dismantle or resell the cars. 

 

Along the route to Tel Dan, we passed through the Jezreel Valley and the Megiddo plains. There have been 36 battles in history on this land and it is the site where, according to prophecy, the armies for the final Armageddon are supposed to gather. It is a broad fertile valley surrounded by mountains—a spectacular view.

 

We passed the Megiddo Tel, one of the best known digs in Israel. A Tel is a mound containing layers of civilizations, built upon each other to create man-made hills. The digs all over Israel are carefully unearthing these Tels to reveal thousands of years of human habitation.

 

We arrived at the Harmon Field School in time to walk the grounds and see the sunset over the Hula Valley. This is a naturalist’s dream, a splendid retreat where groups can be housed and fed so they may venture on hikes or archeological digs. The grounds are beautifully tended and the buildings are soft ocher colored stucco and red tiled roofs. There are clusters of barracks like housing providing privacy among communities of people, who gather at the dining hall for simply prepared platters of food.  Chicken and turkey are the Israeli staple meat. One thing that has not changed in 33 years is the preparation of “schnitzel” (fried breaded chicken or turkey) as the default meat meal in cafeteria food. Schnitzel in Israel is like tofu in Marin; it defines the region.

 

The weather in the summer is very hot between noon=4 PM anywhere in the country, even the mountain country of the Golan. My body as acclimated to the heat, but I feel fatigue in the afternoon and long naps give me a second wind. The evenings are balmy and mornings delightful. Being outdoors most of the day in Israel, I feel the day cycle and my eating and drinking patterns become more Israeli—lots of water, no alcoholic beverages, fruits and salads, with sweet snacks as a treat. I am not dieting, but feel lighter and have more energy. Perhaps the break from work routine and stress contribute to my contentment. I miss people I care about from home and am grateful for the blessings of love and caring of the people I will return to. 

Weizmann Institute and on to Tel Dan

The joke here is that the nice thing about the Weitzmann Institute is that it is located so near Israel. It is an international research center in  applied sciences such as medical and energy. As soon as you go on campus you could be confused whether you entered Stanford or MIT. The campus and facilities are outstanding, and my host Sherman Rosenfeld will tour me through the main campus today before I leave Rehovot.

Today begins the second leg of my Israel journey. I will meet my cousin Avraham Dworsky and together we go to the airport to pick up Hal Bonette who is one of the Tel Dan archeological dig leaders. Hal, who is not Jewish (Southerner from Georgia), returns to Israel every year since 1993 to participate in digs. Avraham and Hal either together or separately will be my companions over the next two weeks.

Our plan is to room together in the Tel Dan field school between 6/21-6/25 and take day hikes in the Golan.  Hal and I will visit an Israeli Arab village on Saturday while Avraham observes the Shabbat. I will be with Hal during the dig from 6/25-6/30 and then drive down to Avraham’s kibbutz Alumim in the Negev and spend Shabbat there. Then we will go off to a hotel in the Negev and hike the Mitzpe Ramon area, which is considered the “Grand Canyon” of Israel. Afterwards I will tour water reclamation projects in the Negevwith a Jewish National Fund representative before I return to Jerusalem for my last two days in Israel.

I now leave the Israel of cities and tourist attractions and enter the wilderness areas in the Golan and Negev, remote archeological dig site, and Kibbutz community. I will be engaged in some pretty arduous outdoor activity that will literally bring me close to the land of Israel.  

I do not know what the Internet access will be until I get to Alumim and will be able to connect after July 1. So you may see no new postings for a while but I will continue to write about this journey, and will post again when I can.

Ayalon Institute

I met my French/Israeli colleague Daniel Rouach’s wife, Elisheva, for lunch in a noodle shop that would have felt right in place on Geary street in SF, except of course the waitresses speak Hebrew, not Chinese. We caught up on our kids, work, and the full range of subjects from France, the US, and Israel. She and Daniel attended my son David and daughter in law Valerie’s wedding and she gave me the invitation for her daughter’supcoming wedding. Visiting with Israeli friends and family in local spots is a delightful way to feel a part of life here. 

After lunch I went to the Ayalon Institute. It was a secret ammunition factory during the British Mandate when Jews were forbidden to arm themselves by the British, while the Palestinians and Arab countries surrounding them were preparing to attack once the British left. The facility was hidden under a Kibbutz and was the largest bullet factory for the sten guns used by the Israeli army in 1948. The clandestine operation was part of the network of hidden armaments factories. Going through the restored factory 24 feet under the ground, you realize how tough and ingenious were those early Israelis as they faced both British and Arab  antagonists.

After the war, the factory was disbanded and the group who worked there began  Kibbutz Maagan Michael, which I mentioned in a previous blog I had visited in 1972. 

to see more about the Ayalon Institute check out this website:

The Ayalon Institute 

The chutzpah of those early Israelis to use technology to protect and establish Israel is nicely complemented by the high tech facilities, including Sapient, which are located right near the old Kibbutz. The past is preserved, but the future is apparent in the Israeli Silicon Wadi (wadi is Arabic for riverbed and is their take on our Silicon Valley). It is indeed a statement of how far Israel has come: from the hidden factory to ensure its survival to now their open linkage in the global economy as a full partner.

Photo below of clandestine factory with a model worker

 

Haifa: Technion University

I took the coastal train to Haifa for a second meeting with a colleague from the Technion University. The coastal plain by the Mediterranean between Tel Aviv and Haifa is the most developed area of Israel. The beaches are lovely and the landscape has cultivated fields along with many communities. This is where most Israelis live. The train is fast, smooth, and a delight, contrasting with the old train system I recall from the 70’s. The air conditioning and comfortable seats are so welcome during these warm summer days.

Photo above: Soldiers waiting for the train. 

I had visited this professor at the Technion to discuss the possibility of my teaching a seminar as I did in 2001. We had a friendly conversation, and he asked if I would return in a few days to collaborate with him and a military college colleague on a presentation for an economic development plan for an Israeli city they both grew up in. We brainstormed and then had lunch together in the faculty dining room. For me it was a kick to help redraft their powerpoint presentation and refine the concepts for their further use. You get to know how people think through collaboration, and the three of us were really in synch. It gave me the chance to work with highly accomplished native-born Israelis.

Yair, the military colleague, is a retired Brigadier General who had more than a minor connection for me. Not only was he born on Kibbutz Gonen, where I had volunteered and revisited on this trip, but also he was the head tank commander in the battle for the Golan Heights during the Yom Kippur War…he commanded the tank battalion that held off the Syrian onslaught during those first critical 48 hours. I was in the Kibbutz Gonen shelter close to the battle — how amazing that I got to know the highly decorated Israeli who had in a real sense saved my life 33 years ago.

After our meeting and lunch, Yair drove me to the train station so we had some time to talk. He teaches military officers how to make decisions under battle stress and he had a long career through many of Israel’s wars and engagements. He remarked that unlike other armies that decorate its soldiers and create hierarchies and privilege, the Israeli army is egalitarian. He eats the same food and waits in line just as the lowly private. The private today may be the general in 20 years. He asked me what I thought about Israel on this trip, and I told him that I feel a great connection, but when here I feel how much of an American I am. My home is in the Bay Area and that is where I belong. He was disappointed that I did not want to come back to live or spend more time working in Israel, but my inclinations are clear to me.

Yair told me how he gives money for scholarships to poor students from his town, so they can continue their studies and how Israel needs more money for education and social development. But he was not soliciting me for a donation. He said “Jeff, what we really need is peace. Then we can become like a Switzerland…What we also need is for your young people to come here and experience Israel so when they return they will be the best ambassadors we could have in the States.”

As with many of the Israeli military men I have met, Yair, who has so much experience with war, looks forward to peace. Most of the Israelis I have spoken with are pessimistic for a solution with the Palestinians. He thinks he will see peace in his lifetime. I hope he is right.

Rehovot

This area south east of Tel Aviv is among the most upscale in Israel, and the construction boom is amazing. High rise apartments and office complexes are going up everywhere. Yesterday I visited the Davidson campus of the Weitzmann Institute where my host Sherman Rosenfeld instructs science teachers in project based learning. 

The campus is beautifully designed and the classrooms are  very comfortable and conducive to learning. Visiting the Weitzmann and the Technion in Haifa, I am aware of how much private donations have made a difference in the Israeli university systems. Just like Stanford and our large universities have major endowments and funded buildings from donors, so do these universities. San Francisco State University where I teach which is State funded does not benefit from this largesse and it is interesting to view Israel from the progression of its universities and research centers.

I asked Sherman about the Israeli education system and what the role of the army plays in the education system. While he was generally discouraged about the Israeli K-12 system (although he said more kids are now in secondary school than in the 50's and 60's when education was for more elite families so benchmarks for the samples were from a different population mix), the military has a critical role in training people for the workforce. Since military service is universal, it becomes the vehicle for getting most everyone up to a certain level of competency in something.

Rehovot and the university campuses certainly provides a view of Israel most tourists do not get to see: successful, appealing, and aesthetically world-class.

On the Road to Rehovot

When I told my friend I was renting a car in Israel he said that driving there is a nightmare. Not quite right, it is more like a fitfull night sleep with occasional bad dreams.

I had detailed instructions from my host, Sherman Rosenfeld, based on the published road map as to how to get to his home in Rechovot from Tiberias. This was a fairly major excursion, navigating through several roads to get to the major new thruway #6 which is still being extended.

First problem with directions in Israel is that rather than have north or south designated on highway signs they have the towns the road is destined for. So you need to know that the sign Afula means north or can mean south depending on where you are located. Kind of like if our signs on 101 had Eureka, Richmond and Palo Alto with no indication of the direction you were going in. Needless to say, I was geographically challenged in figuring where I should be going when the directions said south or east on a particular road and I saw the name of a town.

But that was not the funniest part. The full length of Highway 6 is clearly indicated on all road maps and the signs at the intersections for entry are also up. The problem is that the road is not finished, so where I was supposed to enter was not fully constructed. You had to know the detour route which was not indicated on any road signs.

So I saw the sign, but passed what should have been the entrance. I pulled in to a gas station and the attendent did not know how to get to Highway 6, but a lady sitting in her car did know. She said that I needed to travel another 45 minutes to get to the right entrance, but her English was not good enough to explain it to me. So she calls her husband Ronen, who does speak English to give me directions. When I say the map shows the entrance is nearby, he laughed and said the map is constructed ahead of the actual road. He then gave me detailed instructions and both he and his wife said if there are any problems I should call him on his cell phone and he would help guide me.

I got back on the road, followed his instructions and got on to Highway 6. The route I took brought back memories since I passed Maagon Michael which had been the most successful Kibbutz in israel during my stay in 1972. Glad to see it was still thriving. I arrived at my hosts, Sherman and Melody Rosenfled's house in Rohovot safely, and they have already made me feel so much at home.

How typical of my experience in Israel to be lost and then found by good people who steer me the right way and who just laugh at the complexity and logic of the Israeli road system.

I am still keeping Ronen's phone number. Who knows the next time I will need a friend to guide me.

Park Hayarden and Tel Hadar Beach

Park Hayarden has nature trails with a narrow tributary of the Jordan River. Boats and kayaks can be rented and this is a great nature preserve with lots of pup tents set up by overnighters. I walked through a stretch of parkland that had thick vegetation; the Galilee has more rainfall than other parts of Israel so there is more growth.

Photo of the Jordan River 

Photo of t 

Tel Hadar is one of several public beaches along the Sea of Galilee. Many young Israelis, teens partying and families playing with their children, enjoy the lakeside. One of the funny ironies I experience all over Israel, is the dissonance between all these Hebrew speaking Israelis with the background music blasting American rap and outrageous vulgarities. You hear rap at the beach, in the shopping centers, and on pedestrian malls——to them it is hip and American——to me it is a disconnect. Yet, Israel is a small country and it is natural that foreign cultural influences would be attractive, particularly from the US.

A group of teen Ethiopian-Israeli boys were all playing gleefully by a large raft. They were clearly enjoying the day and seemed so very much at home. I could not tell if they were speaking Hebrew or Amharric, but it was clear they are Israelis. Having been involved with Operations Moses and Solomon through our Jewish Federation efforts, I remember the Ethiopian rescue and how difficult it was to acculturate the remnant of what were then called Falashas into Israel. I saw the absorption centers and classrooms with 15 year old Ethiopian boys during my 1993 UJA mission. It is with that perspective that I appreciate the miracle of these teens playing in the Sea of Galilee; perhaps they were born here or came as babies, but they are now as much a part of Israel as anyone.

I walked in the warm water along the rocky Galilean beach imagining the fishermen of ancient eras going out in their boats and casting nets. Somehow the music from the beach huts with the words “hoes” and “bitches” seemed ephemeral and the pebbles under my feet were unaffected by the passage of time.

Capernaum and Bethseda: The Town of Jesus

Archeology in Israel is a national passion and what has been uncovered in the past 50 years is extraordinary. Many of the digs are run by universities and religious orders who have discovered a great deal of early pre-Israelite, Hebrew, Christian, Byzantine, and Moslem sites. Capernaum has been uncovered and is run by the Franciscan order.

Capernaum is one of the most fascinating of the Galilean finds. One of the earliest synagogues built upon a previous synagogue that Jesus is supposed to have visited is part of a complex of finds that includes the disciple Peter’s house.

Capernaum is an extraordinary area and I saw busloads of Italian and other European tourists come to the site. They listened to tour guides and leaders in multiple languages tell the story of Capernaum and its significance to early Christianity, and some of them openly conducted prayer services. Capernaum moved me to feel a connection to the people of that time and when you see places that are the stones and structures from ancient eras, the mind imagines the place, the people, the way they lived, and it all comes alive.

Bethseda is a dig still in progress. It was a fishing village that bordered on the Galilee when the lake was larger, but is now nestled in the hills. This dig is coordinated by a host of American universities and they have uncovered the foundations and walls of both a wine maker and fisherman’s complex. I walked the circumference of the site where thousands of stones lie in open piles. Jesus is supposed to have given one of his sermons at Bethseda and quotes from his teachings are etched in stone from where he spoke to the multitudes. You are actually standing on the hill facing the valley where he addressed his believers.

Seeing these early Christian sites, I was impressed by how much care the Israelis have given to the discovery, maintenance and protection of the holy sites from each of the religions. These are exhibited in the natural setting where they are found. To view them with birds chirping, wind blowing, and sun shining—to just walk through a site—is so engaging; it is different than just seeing pieces displayed in a museum.